Our seminar conducted a fieldtrip to Yanaka, a district in Tokyo known for its nostalgic charm. We began our walk in Ueno, encountering the weekly soup kitchen supporting unhoused residents. The scene reminded us that near the quiet streets and historic temples, Yanaka and its surroundings , other social realities are often invisible to outsiders.
Near the art and music universities, the atmosphere shifted. In Ueno Sakuragicho, Kayaba Coffee, Natsume Sosekis heritage and the Minna no Roji complex including a Nordic-style bakery, and a bar serving Yanaka-inspired craft beer marked the small, yet recognizable details of rising consumer gentrification, as these spaces merge contemporary consumption with the attractiveness of the historical neighbourhood. As such, cafés, galleries, and boutique shops can be understood as increasing signs of so called creative urban lifestyles, attracting tourists and new residents while reshaping the neighborhoods social fabric.

Walking through Yanaka Reien, where Higuchi Ichiyo, Shibusawa Eiichi, and Momoko Kochi are buried, highlighted further the coexistence of history and modernity, often typical for neighbourhoods in Tokyo. Narrow alleys, wooden houses, and centuries-old cemeteries stand alongside renovated mansions and small design-focused commercial spaces. As such, Yanaka functions can be almost called a living archive, where each corner tells stories of memory, reshaping publicness and negotiating social pattern .
Further evidence of gentrification was encountered when we entered the Hanaju flowershop, redesigned by Maru Architects and the Hagiso art gallery, which demonstrate how curated design and cultural branding reposition Yanaka as a creative space. Moreover, Yanaka Ginza, once a traditional shitamachi shopping street, now is the home to many tourist-focused snack shops, souvenir stores, and cafés. Behind the old façades, small wooden houses next to bamboolike, towering apartment buildings, whereas empty lots often become parking to maximize returns under developer pressure. This uneven urban environment, being a blend of heritage, creative experimentation, and commercial redevelopment, reveals the fragile balance between preservation and market-driven transformation.

Despite these pressures, Yanaka kept its distinct charm. Yet the tension between nostalgia, social capital and urban renewal is unmistakable. For students, the fieldtrip was a good lesson to observe that history and nostalgia are not merely aesthetic values but active participants in a city in constant flux.
References (APA)
Imai, H. (2024). Yanaka Revisited: New creative approaches to revitalize a Tokyo neighborhood. International Communication Studies (国際コミュニケーション研究), 3, 20–27. 専修大学. https://senshu-u.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/2000720/files/1081_0003_06.pdf senshu-u.repo.nii.ac.jp
Imai, H. (2015). Preserving Tokyo’s alleyways: From marginal to neighbourhood place? GIS Journal: the Hosei Journal of Global and Interdisciplinary Studies, 1, 1–18. Hosei University. https://doi.org/10.15002/00010890 hosei.ecats-library.jp
Imai, H. (2018). Marginalized, rediscovered and commodified – The perception of alleyways in contemporary Tokyo. GIS Journal: the Hosei Journal of Global and Interdisciplinary Studies, 4, 21–29. Hosei University. https://doi.org/10.15002/00014592 hosei.ecats-library.jp
Imai, H. (2017). Tokyo Roji: The diversity and versatility of alleys in a city in transition. Routledge. (特に、「Chapter Nezu and Yanaka and the mixed-used roji」の章) Taylor & Francis
Leighton, B. (2024, May 1). EYES ON: Yanaka. Tokyo Cowboy. https://www.tokyocowboy.co/articles/eyes-on-yanaka tokyo cowboy
Imai, H. (2014). A spatial anthropology of the changing use of urban spaces in Tokyo, Japan. In 4th International Degrowth Conference, Leipzig. (Conference paper)
Sekai Property. (2020, March 27). Is Tokyo at risk of gentrification? Sekai Property. https://en.sekaiproperty.com/article/3698/tokyo-gentrification en.sekaiproperty.com




