Walking through Hamburg this late summer doing fieldwork, I recalled Yokohama and felt the strange rhythm of two cities shaped by water, trade, and memory. In the HafenCity the sunlight danced on glass towers, tourists clicked their cameras, and cafés smelled of espresso and almond croissants. I lingered in a modern café and spoke with a young owner who had moved from Berlin. She loved the design and the buzz, but when I asked if locals came here, she hesitated and said softly, “Mostly no, they don’t feel welcome anymore”. The city felt alive yet curated, like a stage where everyday life had been gently pushed aside (Novy & Colomb, 2013).

A few streets away, in the Gängeviertel, everything slowed down. A muralist painting a brick wall spoke of “looners” – long-term residents who had endured factory closures and redevelopment waves. Sitting on a worn bench, an elderly woman told me about alleyways filled with music, markets that smelled of fish and tar, and children racing past warehouses. These are the stories gentrification quietly erases. In Hamburg-Harburg, the Walls Can Dance project brought color to old port warehouses, blending heritage and street art (Hamburg Tourism, 2025). Cranes, tracks, and old buildings coexist alongside new offices, preserving the port’s history filtered through creativity.
In Yokohama, I often wander(ed) through Koganechō’s narrow alleys, talking with shopkeepers, street artists, and long-standing residents. One café owner hosted small music events, quietly sustaining neighborhood life amid Minato Mirai’s towers (Imai, 2025). Fishermen’s warehouses had been converted into galleries and boutique shops, yet the smell of tar, the murmur of everyday life, and the improvisation of alley activities lingered. Walking these alleys, I saw almost the same layers as in Hamburg: the shiny modern city overlaid on a fragile, persistent network of memory, labor, and informal life (Imai, 2019).
Next steps in the research involve de Certeau-inspired walks to record narratives of daily life, interviews with shopkeepers, artists, and long-time residents, and photographic documentation of ephemeral urban traces. The research aims at comparative mapping of Hamburg, Yokohama and similar port districts to trace gentrification, creative industry clusters, and cultural resilience. Integrating quantitative data on tourism, real estate, and creative employment will allow cross-city analysis. The aim is to capture what disappears – informal social networks, daily rhythms, and the small practices that sustain urban memory – alongside what emerges, the curated “creative city,” offering insights for port cities worldwide navigating heritage, creativity, and transformation. Stay tuned for the next episode coming soon!

References
Hamburg Tourism. (2025). Cultural route: Maritime architecture and street art in Harburg. https://www.hamburg-travel.com/discover-hamburg/areas/discovering-new-corners/cultural-route-maritime-architecture-and-street-art-in-harburg/
Imai, H. (2019, February 2). Yokohamas Koganechō – vom Obdachlosen- und Rotlichtviertel zur Kunststadt. OAG – Deutsche Gesellschaft für Natur- und Völkerkunde Ostasiens. https://oag.jp/events/heide-imai-yokohamas-koganecho-vom-obdachlosen-und-rotlichtviertel-zur-kunststadt/
Imai, H. (2025). From Shipyards to Skylines: An Overview about the Evolution of Yokohama’s Waterfront. In Waterfront Regeneration in a Time of Climate Change. Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781003597209-8
Novy, J., & Colomb, C. (2013). Struggling for the right to the (creative) city in Berlin and Hamburg: New urban social movements, new “spaces of hope”? International Journal of Urban and Regional Research, 37(5), 1816–1838. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2427.2012.01115.x
Schubert, D., & Hamburg Business. (2024). Creative industries in Hamburg: Driving urban innovation. https://www.hamburg.com/business/economic-clusters/creative-17012

















